September 18 2014, 06:22 PM   •   544 notes   •   Via   •   Source
#tutorial   
cosplaconmo:

jayalaw:

mjolnirismypenis:

"Anna, you can’t marry someone you just met."
Elsa: jdevoll Anna: Nina Joffrey: mjolnirismypenis Photo by: danikhaleesi

Oh my God.

No! Drop it! Put it back where you found it! Good girl. Haha this is brilliant.

cosplaconmo:

jayalaw:

mjolnirismypenis:

"Anna, you can’t marry someone you just met."

Elsa: jdevoll
Anna: Nina
Joffrey: mjolnirismypenis
Photo by: danikhaleesi

Oh my God.

No! Drop it! Put it back where you found it! Good girl. Haha this is brilliant.

September 15 2014, 04:54 PM   •   13,879 notes   •   Via   •   Source
#frozen   #got   #cute cosplayers   

socialworkgradstudents:

missknotty:

gameofreferences:

Michele Carragher, the head embroider on Game of Thrones, made this awesome tutorial to show how she created the dragonscale fabric that appears on several of Daenarys’ costumes in S3 and S4.

Ms. Carragher says that the dragonscale fabric was created because “In season 3 the Costume Designer Michele Clapton wanted a Dragonscale like textured embroidery that starts to emerge on three of Daenery’s costumes, which becomes heavier and more pronounced, growing and evolving as the season progresses” (Carragher).

In stages 9-11 of the tutorial we see how the textile evolves from lightly to heavily embellished. This progression is meant to illustrate Daenarys’ personal growth and the growth of her dragons (source).

Here’s a link to Ms. Carragher’s website.

WOW!

Don’t care about Game of Thrones but that shit is cool

September 09 2014, 06:18 PM   •   36,550 notes   •   Via   •   Source

mangosirene:

I get messages on a regular basis from people who are scared of cosplaying, and it makes me so sad that there are people out there who really want to try cosplaying but are too afraid of getting internet hate to participate. That just ain’t cool.

Bullying is never okay, but unfortunately it’s a pretty frequent occurrence in the online world of fandom. And realistically, the bullies probably aren’t going anywhere. The internet makes it really easy for people to spread hate, and I don’t think there will ever be a day when it isn’t an issue in the cosplay community. (Depressing, I know, especially considering we’re all a bunch of weirdos pretending to be magical girls/ninjas/dudes with giant swords/elves/etc. In an ideal world, we’d all stick together, but unfortunately, it’s not an ideal world.)

When you see someone else being bullied, it can be easy to stand up for them - but when you’re the one receiving hate messages on Tumblr or someone is leaving cruel comments on your photos, it can be a lot harder. I’ve found that when it comes to dealing with hate you may get for your costumes, the best thing to do is let it go.

Don’t acknowledge it, don’t give it a second of your time, because it seriously does not matter. Seriously. Doesn’t matter. No, really, it doesn’t. Step back and look at the big picture. Does a message from some jerk on the internet who hates your nose or your weight or your fabric choice really affect your life? No. It doesn’t. There are so many awesome things to enjoy in life, ain’t nobody got time to waste on jerks like that.

Just don’t care what other people think. Someone thinks you make an ugly Sailor Moon? Who cares! You had a great time cosplaying her and you got to spend the whole day with your Sailor Scout group, and you’re really proud of the pictures you guys took together - so share those memories, post them all over your Tumblr and your Facebook, spam them everywhere! If that person doesn’t like your costume, that’s their problem. You keep on doin’ you.

It’s easier said than done; having self-confidence takes practice, but once you get there, it’s an insanely good feeling to know that their words can’t hurt you. Focus on having fun with your hobby, spending time running around as ninjas with your friends, and crying over your sewing machine the night before a con because your SnK jacket isn’t done and you still haven’t started on the straps and oh god how does 3DMG even work.

This got a lot longer than I intended, but tl;dr: Don’t let the haters stop you from sharing your artwork with other cosplayers and bonding with each other over this silly, ridiculous hobby of ours.

September 04 2014, 08:04 PM   •   871 notes   •   Via   •   Source
Hello! Your Miriel cosplay is amazing and very pretty! I was curious as to how you made your hat for her though? I've been trying to make a witch like hat on my own but it never seems to look right
Anonymous Asked

jerrygergich-appreciationblog:

Ahh thank you very much ; v ;!! 

Sorry for the late reply! I didn’t have my computer handy to post the images etc but when I got to it I kinda lost track of the message;;;

The black part is like a heavy duty spandex? My sister used it for her super hero costume so I just reused it haha.The underpart is made out of another fabric probably suiting? But it was used from stuff I already had long ago. The metal parts are foam painted and covered in modge podge. 

The general pattern for the hat is one I referenced from most generic wizard hat tutorials. Make a circle, measure your head and trace it out of the circle (make sure you keep it in an oval shape so it fits your head right). Then, using the same head measurement, stretch a soft tape measure to the preferred length and measure around until you get a “pie slice” shape the width of your head. 

Once you have all the pieces cut out, sew the cone part together, then to the top brim fabric. Then, sew the top brim to the bottom brim fabric, and turn it right side out.

I used heavy duty interfacing to make the general “skeleton” of the hat (its like purse interfacing but doesn’t need to be ironed on) and reinforced it with wire I whip stitched into the rim. I added a second part similar to the cone pattern for the hat’s outer fabric cut shorter that I whip stitched a wire  ”spine” to for the top of the hat. To give it the shape I bent the wire and stuffed the hat to bend around the wire nooks. This is generally what it looks like inside: image

Once you finish making the “skeleton” and the “sock” fabric piece, slide the sock over the skeleton by folding the wire brim into a taco shape and shoving it into the hole. After you get it all in, slowly and carefully realign the pieces and unfold the wire back into a circle. Then, glue or sew the bottom brim of the sock to the inside of the skeleton’s cone section. Stuff the cone part, add some wig clips near the head hole for it to stay and tada!! You are done u v u

September 04 2014, 07:32 AM   •   36 notes   •   Via   •   Source
#tutorial   

tmirai:

Foam and Worbla armour MEGA TUTORIAL

Tutorial by AmenoKitarou

Super duper awesome and helpful! I am totally going to try this out for my Garrosh cosplay.

September 01 2014, 07:12 PM   •   67,644 notes   •   Via   •   Source
#tutorial   

tyrfing-plus:

Pattern reference for Lucina’s tunic, just because I can. Linings were omitted again, turns out I drafted and cut out the linings without making a hard copy.

The tunic is suppose to come off and on very easily.

August 22 2014, 05:04 PM   •   40 notes   •   Via   •   Source
#fe:a   #reference   

SCISSOR BLADE TUTORIAL

madamparadox:

image

How to make an easy, light weight, inexpensive scissor blade!

image

You’ll need: image

  1. The largest 1cm thick piece of foam poster board you can find. Ours was bought at ACmoore for $7.99. We only needed one.
  2. Your best scissors
  3. An exacto blade and maybe a kitchen knife
  4. A sanding block and sand paper
  5. Potentially types of tape (Not necessary)
  6. Tacks (Potentially)
  7. A pencil and sharpie
  8. And a large piece of paper/ tracing paper roll
  9. Super Gloss or regular gloss Mod Podge. $6.99
  10. Red Spray paint $2.49
  11. A clear gloss coating/ enamel to cover spray paint.

You’ll be making the handle twice so use your foam board carefully. Line up the flat edge of your blade with the flat edge of the board to save room. Our blade ended up the exact length of the board

  • STEP 1: Make a pattern for your blade on your scrap paper. You don’t need to cut it out, mark where you’ll be sanding down to add the sloped edge of the blade and any other details you want.
  • STEP 2: Place your pattern on your board and with a pencil go over your final lines heavily to press them into the board underneath. We used tacks to keep it in place with tracing. Make any marks into the board you need, they won’t show up later.
  • STEP 3: Cut out your blade shape. (If you have the same board we had it will have a paper coating.) Peel off the paper coating. Do this on all parts of this tutorial. Make sure there is no paper left, only foam.
  • STEP 4: Once your blade is roughly cut out, line up where you ended it to your scrap paper. Draw the handle. Follow the same steps as a above for this.
  • STEP 5: Carefully use your exacto blade to cut out your shapes exactly how you want them.

THIS IS WHAT YOU SHOULD NOW HAVE (minus the sanded blade edge)

image

  • STEP 6: Roughly connect your blade and handle with a piece of tape or hot glue. Use that to trace and make the connecting piece. It should look something like this outlined area just not crappily done in paint. Once this new piece is cut out of your foam, remove the paper from it and glue it on top of your blade so it lines up.

image

  • STEP 7: SANDING! Sand down your blade edge into a slope, sand around all edges that are like this. Sand in your details for the grip and the creases in the handle. The handle also has sloped edges. Sand down flat parts as well. We noticed the foam would pill a little. Sand heavily where you connected the top piece to the blade to get a seamless slope from blade to handle. This unexpectedly came out awesome. Be careful sanding since its hard to maneuver the blade to do detailing. This will make a huge snowy mess and i recommend wearing some sort of mask. We used bandanas since it was all we had and we looked like cowboys.
  • STEP 8: Create the holes in the blade. Draw them in, poke in the basic hole with scissors, knife, exacto, whatever. Then, using your sand paper, go into the holes and sand down the edges to create nice openings.

THIS IS OUR BLADE AFTER THESE STEPS:

image

image

we added the tape as a grip, the blade did not break. It also helped to balance the blade and the handle. It’s electrical tape since that will paint over the easiest.

STEP 9: YOU’RE ALMOST DONE! We used Mod Podge Super Gloss as our sealer since it was all I had. Get this somewhere with a coupon! It dries in 2 hours, the cure time is 4 weeks but no one has time for that and it didn’t matter. Normal Mod Podge gloss works just as well but it requires more coats. It’s dry time is 15-20 minutes. This will make the blade shiny once it is spray painted and get rid of the grainy texture. Go over edges heavily as well as where you connected the top piece at the blade to get a smooth edge.

We left the back detail free but you can sand the back as well so long as you’re careful not to make any part too thin.

STEP 10: SPRAY PAINT IT! We bought a small container of cherry red and we just had enough to finish. let this dry.

STEP 11: CLEAR ENAMEL COVER. Spray it with any spray cover gloss to give it an extra shine and seal the spray paint. Let it dry.

YOU ARE DONE!

You now have a shiny red super light scissor blade out of only foam and glue!

This blade is  not fragile but it is not strong either. You don’t need to be delicate with it, just don’t be reckless! I swung it around a bit, it was good!

image

image

HAPPY CRAFTING!!! 

If you have any questions feel free to comment or reblog with them, or you can personally throw a message my way and I’ll gladly answer!

August 21 2014, 06:46 PM   •   205 notes   •   Via   •   Source
#klk   #tutorial   

invaderboom:

My Response To Jimmy Kimmel Harassing Cosplayers At Comic-Con

August 18 2014, 06:49 PM   •   712 notes   •   Via   •   Source
August 17 2014, 06:39 PM   •   4,085 notes   •   Via   •   Source